On the auspicious occasion of India’s 78th Independence Day, we must recognize the role of traditional luxury in shaping India’s identity. It isn’t just about luxury, it is about the country’s cultural richness, diversity, and the spirit of resilience. From intricate textiles to exquisite jewellery, the luxury market in India is a testament to the country's artistic prowess and the enduring legacy of its artisans.
Before the rise of British colonial rule, India was known to be a powerhouse in textile production and had approximately 25% shares in the world’s textiles during the 17th century. The nation was famous for its quality, intricate designs, and world-class fabrics such as silk, cotton, and wool. These fabrics were highly sought after in the international markets and entered the English lexicon due to their immense popularity in Europe.
Drawn by the profitability of Indian textiles, The British East India Company, first came to India for trade. However, gradually as their power grew, they started exploiting the local resources which led to the decline of India’s traditional handloom industry. They introduced cheaper, machine-made textiles which undermined the local artisans who struggled to compete with the lower prices and durability of those goods. To further weaken the Indian weavers, they started imposing tariffs and taxes plunging the artists into poverty. By the time of Independence, the once thriving textile produced had reduced to a mere 2% of the global market, marking a significant loss of cultural heritage.
Despite the horrifying effects of colonialism, Indian textiles continued to influence global fashion. One of the significant examples is the usage of the paisley pattern, derived from Kashmiri Shawls, by Western designers without acknowledging the Indian heritage and stripping it of its cultural significance. Today, Indian craftsmanship is recognized for its contributions to global luxury, and collaborations between Indian designers and international brands are on the rise.
Indian designers have been increasingly collaborating with Western designers and brands, creating unique fusion while celebrating the beauty of Indian craftsmanship. Like the time when Sabyasachi collaborated with the Swedish retail giant H&M, featuring his significant opulent designs at accessible prices launching Indian luxury at a global platform. And who can forget the ever-stunning Jennifer Aniston in Manish Malhotra’s design for her movie, Murder Mystery 2? Gaurav Gupta showcased his collection on the global platform, Paris Couture Week, where he blended traditional Indian techniques with contemporary silhouettes, impressing the international fashion circles.
Indians have also made their mark in jewellery as well as handicrafts, blending traditional craftsmanship with modern design sensibilities. Notable examples include Parisian designer Marie Lichtenberg, who merges Indian hand embroideries with Western style. Similarly, Sara Beltran, a Mexican designer, reimagined Indian Polki jewellery by adding her signature rose gold finish, appealing to a global audience. These partnerships showcase Indian craftsmanship on the international stage and foster a rich cultural exchange that enriches both Indian and Western design narratives.
As India continues to evolve, so does its luxury market. The projected growth of the luxury sector, expected to reach $8.5 billion by 2023, reflects the untapped potential within this space. The emphasis on empowering women artisans and preserving traditional crafts is crucial for the future of Indian luxury. Initiatives like the Chanakya School of Craft not only provide training and opportunities for women but also ensure that the invaluable skills of embroidery and textile design are passed on to future generations.
The Luxury Market reflects the country's cultural richness, resilience, and spirit. By embracing and promoting these values, India can continue to carve out its unique space in the global luxury landscape, celebrating its past while innovating for the future.
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